McClintock Bay

Again, I write this from a secure, protected and ice-free anchorage just on the west side of Simpson Straight. We pulled into here (McClintock Bay) yesterday afternoon when we saw that the forecast wind was starting to fill in higher than predicted.  Gusting to 30 kts we all agreed that 1) We were in no rush to get to Cambridge Bay and 2) That we’d had enough “drama” for a while.  Yesterday was also Greg’s birthday and Dominique not only prepared and served hamburgers (one of his favorites) and a fresh salad (bought while in Gjoa Haven) but a blueberry birthday cake for desert!

Gjoa Haven was wonderful; the people were very friendly and a long over due chance to stretch our legs without having to stay huddled in a group carrying firearms. GH is a small community of perhaps 900 and to say that they welcome visitors is an understatement.  A few our the group ended up in the mayor’s office and left with everything from GH coffee cups to stickers.  In a few more days we hope to be in Cambridge Bay where we’ll take on fuel, do a few interviews and actually live a civilized life for the first time in over a month.  It’s been since Sisimiut since we’ve been able to walk off in six different directions (unarmed), use internet,  or just be among people who don’t live in confined quarters. 

Yesterday while doing my anchor watch, the VHF radio squawked to life with “Bagan, Bagan… Ocean Watch”.  I all but jumped out of my socks.  Total disbelief that I’d heard what I heard.  Sheepishly I answered the call (it wasn’t a practical joke by someone tucked away in the engine room) and in short order found that “Ocean Watch” the sloop that’s doing the “Around The America’s” project was sailing by outside the bay, not a mile away.  To make matters all the more surreal, aboard was old friend and renowned yachting journalist, Herb McCormick. Herb and I haven’t had a chance to chat in over 25 years, and now this.  What do you say to someone with whom who you’ve got a ton of catching up to do, when you’re seemingly thousands of miles from nowhere, and are literally two ships passing in the night?  All of us aboard Bagan wish Ocean Watch and her crew the very best of luck in their mammoth undertaking. Herb, dinner is on me!!

I’m still trying to digest the ice events of the past week.  This is going to take some time.  I’ve run out of superlatives to try and describe it and only hope that my honesty and attempt at being forthright didn’t come off as too negative.  Not being a drinking man, I’m looking forward getting into Cambridge Bay, grabbing a Diet Coke, wandering off, finding a nice place to sit alone in the sun and coming to peace with all of it.